![]() ![]() ![]() Multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling Automatic. Dependably and smoothly handles 8.1-11mm rope diameters in all conditions Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes Guide mode works with 1 or 2 climbers ascending and descending Autoblock release hole accepts small carabiners Imported. I hope this tech tech helps your belays run more smoothly! Your elbows will thank you!Īffiliate links above support the content created here. Optimized for strings between 8.1 and 8.5 mm diameter, but works with strings from 6.9 to 9 mm. Two carabiners greatly reduces the amount of effort required to pull slack through the device This will again reduce the effort of pulling slack through the device with out removing the assisted-braking function. A round stock carabiner makes pulling slack through the device easier than a forged carabiner with “ribs”įinally consider adding a second carabiner for the rope to run around. The rope will pull noticeable smoother around a round stock carabiner. ![]() Next be sure to use a round stock locking carabiner like the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate Carabiner for the rope to run around as opposed to a forged carabiner with “ribs”. This rope pulls very smoothly through any of the above devices! Currently my favorite single rope for multi-pitch ice and alpine rock climbing is the Sterling Fusion Nano IX DryXP, 70m. The skinnier rope you use the less effort it will take to pull slack through the device. Petzl Reverso (8.5mm – 10.5mm single ropes) Skinnier ropes will require less effort to pull slack then thicker diameters but make sure you are staying within the range the manufacture recommends! For reference here are the suggested ranges for some common devices:īlack Diamond Alpine ATC Guide (8.5mm – 9mm single ropes)īlack Diamond ATC Guide (8.9mm – 11mm single ropes) This can lead to a more efficient belay as well as save your elbows from over-use injuries like tendinitis (not uncommon in life long climbers and guides).įirst make sure you are using an appropriate diameter rope for your device. When using a plaquette style belay device ( Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) in Assisted-Braking Mode or Auto-Blocking Mode (to belay a follower directly off the anchor) there are some ways to reduce the amount of effort required to pull slack through the device. ![]()
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